My Varanasi Travel Guide: Best Places To Visit, Stay & Eat

India has attracted spiritual seekers since time immemorial and Varanasi is one of the most fascinating and spiritual places in India.

As well as being one of the holiest places in all of India, the ancient city of Varanasi situated on the banks of the holy Ganges river, is one of the oldest inhabited cities in the whole world.

I’ve been lucky enough to live in India and have visited Varanasi several times, it’s undoubtedly one of the most interesting and most spiritual places to visit in all of India. I know how profound and overwhelming visiting Varanasi can be.

So I created this Varanasi travel guide with all the tips and information you need for planning a trip to Varanasi. From the best things to do and tours to take, to where to stay near the ghats and where to eat. I hope it makes planning your trip easier and that you have an incredible time in Varanasi.

Varanasi Travel Guide

Why you need to visit Varanasi

There are so many spiritual places in India but Varanasi, also known as Kashi (city of life) and Benaras, is the most important.

Varanasi is a holy city for Hindus and pilgrims who come to dip in the holy Ganges river as they believe that it will wash away a lifetime of sins.

If you want to understand more about India’s rich culture, spirituality and religion then Varanasi is an essential stop on any Indian adventure.

Pin Me 🙂

Visiting Varanasi is quite an experience as Hindus believe that dying here releases you from ‘Mokhsa‘ the cycle of death and rebirth.

Being cremated along the holy river Ganges is very auspicious for Hindus, and a unique and unforgettable sight for tourists. Read this article to learn more about why Varanasi is so holy. 

Varanasi can be an assault on the senses but it’s an unmissable Indian experience and one of the most fascinating places I’ve seen. Allow at least 3 or 4 days in Varanasi to soak it all up.

Keep on reading my Varanasi travel guide for the best things to do, places to stay and eat and more tips for visiting Varanasi.

Best Things to Do and Places to Visit in Varanasi

Stroll along the Ghats

There are many things to do in Varanasi but the best way to understand this city is simply to walk along the ghats and also take time to explore the atmospheric, chaotic, winding lanes of the old city to soak up this unique city.

You’ll see wandering cows, tiny shops, colourful bazaars, local life, smoking sadhus (holy men) and maybe even a funeral procession in the narrow streets.

Most of the spiritual activities in Varanasi revolve around the Ghats, which are the riverfront steps along the River Ganges. Pilgrims from all over India come to the Ghats as they believe that taking a dip in the holy river will cleanse their sins away.

Sunrise is the most magical time to visit, but holy rituals are performed throughout the day on the ghats, in the river and in the many temples and small shrines along the ghats.

Dashashwamedh Ghat is the main ghat and is a busy and colourful place full of activity. Assi Ghat and Kedar Ghat are also interesting, you can walk from Dashashwamedh to Assi Ghat to see the best of the ghats.

There are also several important Hindu temples, the most famous is the Vishvanath Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva. Non Hindus and foreigners are not always allowed in, but this can change, you’ll have to see what the situation is when you are there.

Take a sunrise boat ride along the holy Ganges river

Taking a boat ride along the holy river Ganges at sunrise when the whole place is bathed in a magical dewy glow and you can see all the rituals of life , and death, played out along the river bank, is one of the things to do in Varanasi that you simply can’t miss. In fact, it’s one of the most fascinating experiences you can have in all of India.

It’s easy to find a boat ride, just walk along the ghats and you’ll be offered boat rides many times, just be sure to haggle and agree of the price before setting off. Or you can avoid the negotiating and book this sunrise boat tour that includes a knowledgeable guide and pick up from your hotel.

While on the boat you can observe all the life, colour and activity along the ghats as people perform morning rituals as the sun comes up over the city. You’ll witness pujas (prayers) taking place at the many shrines and temples along the river, cremations.

As well as witnessing pilgrims taking a dip in the holy river and local people washing and doing laundry, you’ll see saffron clad holy sadhus talking, smoking, meditating or doing yoga as well as buffaloes being washed and children playing cricket and flying kites. It’s really the best way to see Varanasi!

Read more about my experience at sunrise on the holy Ganges 

Witness a cremation at Manikarnika Ghat

No Varanasi travel guide would be complete without mentioning the cremation ghats. One of the most intriguing aspects of Varanasi is witnessing the funeral rituals performed on the Ghats. Hindus believe that by dying in Varanasi one can achieve moksha – liberation from the cycle of death and rebirth.

The Hindu traditions see cremations and funeral pyres burning almost 24/7 at Manikarnika Ghat and Harishchandra Ghat. Witnessing a burning body can be a strange, emotional and difficult sight, but the more you understand about the Hindu culture the easier it is and I found it a less traumatic experience than I thought it would be.

Remember to be respectful while observing the funerals and do not take photos. Watch a video, see photos and learn more about Varanasi’s burning ghats is this National Geographic article.

Watch the Ganga Aarti

Every evening just after sunset a huge crowd of hundreds of pilgrims (and some tourists) gathers at Dashashwamedh Ghat to watch the Ganga Aarti – a pooja (prayer) where Hindu priests lead a ceremony of fire, chanting and music praising the river Ganges and Lord Shiva.

If you want to avoid the crowds and see the spectacle from a different perspective I’d recommend watching on a boat! On this evening Aarti boat tour you’ll get a front row, unobstructed view of the Aarti from the water, a knowledgeable guide to explain what’s go on and a boat tour along the river at night.

Even if you do the sunrise boat ride it’s still well worth doing a boat trip in the evening too – it’s a totally different experience, plus it’s a more relaxing way to watch the aarti without being in the crush of the crowds.

There is also a smaller aarti held at sunrise at Assi Ghat – perfect timing to watch the morning ceremony before boarding a boat for the sunrise Ganges boat tour.

Visit Ramnagar Fort and Museum

On the other side of the river you can visit the crumbling but still impressive 17th century Ramnagar fort and palace. It was the ancestral home of the Maharaja of Banaras (old name for Varanasi) and is now a eccentric museum.

In the museum you can learn about the history of the area and take a look at the slightly oddly out-of-place collection of vintage American Cars, medieval costumes and vintage weapons.

The fort is also a great place to watch the sun set over the city and the banks of the Ganges.

Visit Sarnath

An easy day trip from Varanasi is Sarnath, famous as the place where the Buddha gave his first sermon after finding enlightenment in Bodhgaya.

Sarnath is one of the 4 important sites on the Buddhist circuit (along with Lumbini in Nepal, Bodhgaya and Kushinagar) There’s several ruins, stupas, temples and monasteries to explore and it makes a pleasant escape from the chaos of Varanasi.

Check out the ruins of Dhamekh stupa and monastery on the site where the Buddha gave his first sermon. The large Chaukhandi Stupa from the 5th century where Buddha met his first disciples is now topped by a large Mughal tower.

There’s also the more modern Mulgandha Kuti Vihar where the Buddha’s first sermon is chanted daily at sunset and an air conditioned Archaeological Museum with some interesting historic artefacts.

Visit Benaras University

Varanasi is well known for having excellent educational establishments. Benaras University was established back in 1916 and the spacious campus is a leafy and pleasant place to explore.

You can also visit the Bharat Kala Bhavan, a museum which has a good collection of paintings, ancient manuscripts and interesting exhibitions about local history.

At Benaras University you can also visit the New Vishwanath Temple which is open to all religions.

Tours of Varanasi

Varanasi is best explored by simply walking around, but to avoid hassle and really get to know more about the rich, unique and fascinating history of one of the world’s oldest cities, it’s better to hire a Varanasi travel guide. Taking a tour will also help you to see more in a short amount of time.

I recommend booking your tour on trusted international platforms like Get Your Guide or Viator as you can read reviews from pervious guests to know that you will get a good experience with a safe and trustworthy guide.

Full Day Private Guided Varanasi Tour 

This is the most comprehensive Varanasi tour that covers all the must sees in one day with a private driver and expert local guide. Perfect for anyone who wants to see and understand everything about Varanasi in one incredible day.

Starting with a sunrise boat ride on the ganges where you’ll see all the most important ghats including Dasaswamedh Ghat. You’ll get off the boat at Manikanika Ghat where the cremations take place where your guide will explain all about the Hindu rituals of life and death.

Next, take a guided walking tour through the winding alleyways, markets and ancient temples of the old town including a visit to the famous Blue Lassi shop where you can try this delicious, traditional drink.

Later on, head to Sarnath to see where the Buddha gave his first sermon after enlightenment and visit the important Tulsi Manas Temple.

Finish off the day watching the evening Aarti ceremony from a private balcony – all with a knowledgeable guide to explain the fascinating history and rituals being played out before you. Find out more details and book your tour here.

Banaras Wala Tours

Personalised private guided tours of Varanasi with experienced local guide Vinay. Get in touch to create your own perfect day in Varanasi or trust Vinay to show you all the highlights and hidden gems of his city.

On this Varanasi tour you’ll watch the morning ceremony at Assi Ghat and take a guided walking tour through the labyrinth of alleys in the old town, visiting Lolark Temple, Rani Lakshmi Bai Park, and Tusli Ghat Akhara to watch traditional wrestling.

Vinay will take you for a local breakfast and chai along the way before boarding a boat to Dasaswamedh Ghat where you can watch the daily lives of the locals along the ghats. You’ll also see Manikarnika Ghat, the golden temple, Pashupatinath temple, and Vishalakshi Temple.

The tour is super affordable and can be tailored to ensure you see everything in Varanasi that you are personally interested in, or trust the expert guide to show you the best of the holy city.

Check out more Varanasi tours (with reviews) on Viator.

Where to Stay in Varanasi

No Varanasi Travel Guide would be complete without tips for where to stay and eat. To really immerse yourself in this unique city I recommend looking for hotels in Varanasi near the ghats.

Most budget accommodation in Varanasi is located close to the ghats. Popular areas to stay in Varanasi are centered around Dhasaswamedh Ghat (the main and very busy ghat.) Guesthouses and restaurants are also found along the Ganges river and down the surrounding narrow lanes.

The area around Assi Ghat (about 30 mins walk South from Dhasaswamedh) is a little quieter and also has good accommodation and eating options close to the river.

The winding streets around the ghats can be quite disorientating and are often too small for vehicles but if you book a reputable hotel in advance they may be able to send someone to help you find the way.

The Best Hotels in Varanasi:

BrijRama Palace Heritage Hotel

This imposing fort like building overlooking the Ganges was built in the 18th century and was recently renovated to become an amazing luxurious, heritage hotel.

It’s believed to be one of the oldest buildings in the city and is the best luxury hotel in Varanasi by far. The hotel is situated just a few minutes walk from Dasashwamedh Ghat but you can soak up the views without having to leave the hotel at all.

Sumptuous rooms are complete with four poster beds and loads of gorgeous character details. There’s amazing views from the rooftop and two restaurants including Darbangha, one of the best restaurants in Varaansi. Check out the reviews and book your room

Amritara Suryauday Haveli

Houses in a tastefully refurbished 20th century fort-style mansion, Suryauday Haveli is a gorgeous 4 star heritage hotel located on Shivala ghat, just a 15-minute walk from the famous Kashi Vishwanath Temple and Dasashwamedh Ghat where the evening Gangga Aarti is held.

Choose from standard or Ganges view rooms which offer wood flooring and all mod cons. There is an Indian vegetarian restaurant and music in the evenings while the rooftop terrace is a heavenly spot to watch the sunrise over the river and take in the panoramic views. See more details and book here.

Via Varanasi Boutique Hotel

Convientaly located close to the sunrise aarti on quieter Assi Ghat, this beautiful, modern, boutique 4 star hotel has everything you need for a comfortable and relaxing stay in Varanasi.

The spacious mini suites are well furnished complete with a separate seating area and the large windows offer views over the city and let in plenty of light The continental and English breakfast, helpful staff and free parking also make this a top place to stay  in Varanasi. Check prices, availability and book here.

Ganpati Guesthouse

A long running popular mid range guesthouse option with large colourful and comfortable rooms in a great location right on the river near Meer Ghat. All rooms have AC, even the budget rooms.

It’s well worth going for the deluxe Ganges view rooms which boast balconies overlooking the river if one is available for your dates. It’s a deservedly popular spot so book in advance to get the best rooms. There’s also an excellent rooftop restaurant. Check availability, reviews and book here.

Aashray Homestay

A peaceful boutique homestay in a quieter residential area only 5 mins away from the busy ghats area. Rooms are immaculately presented with all modern amenities.

The highlight is the hospitality, conversation and excellent home cooking from the wonderful hosts, Mr & Mrs Kapur will welcome you into their home and teach you about local culture while providing excellent home cooked food. More details and bookings here.

Anand Kanan

This popular affordable hotel located in the old city just steps away from Dasaswamedh Ghat and Kashi Vishwanath temple has recently been renovated to offer a clean and comfortable stay in twin and family Ac rooms with attached private bathrooms.

One thing that makes this hotel special is the staff who are super nice, welcoming and helpful, and the manager who is very knowledgeable about Hindu philosophy and happy to share this with guests. Overall, It’s a great choice for an affordable, comfortable and conveniently located stay. Click here to book.

Go Stops Hostel

A colourful and lively modern backpacker hostel with dorms, private rooms and tents. There’s colourful, sociable, communal areas which are great for relaxing and meeting other travellers. The hostel also organises tours and is ideal if you’re looking for a safe, sociable budget Varanasi accommodation option located just 1km from the Assi Ghat. More info and booking here.

Where to Eat and Drink in Varanasi

Varanasi is not a destination for fine dining or hard partying but there are some decent places to get cheap local food, Varanasi is well known for its street food and chaat vendors, and simple restaurants around the ghats.

Due to the religious significance of the city most restaurants, especially those close to the Ganges serve only vegetarian food and no alcohol. Restaurants further away from the ghats may sell non veg food and if you want a drink head to one of the posher hotels away from the ghats.

Kashi Chat Center – Popular street food and tasty chaat near to the intersection on Dashashwamedh Road. Madhur Milan Cafe, also on Dashashwamedh Road is another good place for South Indian food, good value thalis, snacks and samosas popular with locals and tourists.

Keshari Restaurant – Great spot for top quality veg cuisine and curries from all over India

Aum café – Cute place located close to Assi Ghat. A healthy Ayurvedic family run vegetarian cafe with a great selection of herbal teas, coffees and juices and cute little gift shop. Massages and body piercing are also available.

Pizzeria Vaatika Cafe  – Great place for a break from Indian food. The cafe has a great view of the river from the shady terrace and serves thin and crispy pizzas and an amazing apple pie.

Puja Guesthouse – One of the best rooftop restaurants with 180 degree views over the river, good food, a relaxed atmosphere and live music at night.

Shiva Cafe –  A popular place with travellers missing Western food. The extensive menu serves decent value Indian, Nepalese, Thai and Western food.

Darbangha – for a luxurious dining experience head to this fabulous Indian restaurants in the BrijRama Palace Heritage Hotel. The menu includes gourmet street food, delicious curries and a good selection of continental and Thai options.

For non guests there’s a minimum charge of ₹1000 per person but this is one of the very best dining experiences in Varanasi and a good excuse to check out this stunning heritage hotel.

How to Get to Varanasi

Varanasi is well connected with the rest of North India. There is a modern airport in Varanasi with frequent flights to Delhi, Kolkata, Mumbai and Khajuraho.  Check Skyscanner to find the cheapest deals and don’t forget you need a visa to visit India.

Overnight trains run from Delhi to Varanasi Junction and take 12 + hours. You can also take the train to Mughal Sarai Junction 10 kilometers from Varanasi.

Trains get fully booked up way in advance, sleeper buses are also available but I alwasy recommend taking the train if possible. The easiest way to book online from abroad is with 12 Go Asia.

To get to the Main Ghat, where most of the guest houses and hotels are located, you can take an auto rickshaw for about 150 Rupees or try a cycle rickshaw for about 50 Rupees.

Apart from walking, cycle rickshaws are the best way to get around the crowded areas of the old city but make sure to haggle hard and agree on a price before taking off.

Top tips and things you should know before visiting Varanasi

Varanasi is a fascinating place but, in particular the areas around the main ghats, can be a little overwhelming, especially if it’s your first time in India. I usually recommend to visit places like Varanasi towards the end of a trip around India if possible or take a tour.

It’s a good idea to read India travel blogs and Varanasi travel guides to help you prepare and know what to expect. The ghats are also fraught with persistent hassle, touts and scams. Be wary of touts hassling you to pay for wood towards the cremations or for a better view, to see their shops, cheap rickshaw rides that turn into pressured shopping sprees, beggars and fake holy men.

Touts will also follow you telling you information about the ghats like a guide, even if you didn’t ask, and then be very rude expecting payment so you really need to be direct and firmly state you are not interested.

The Ganges river and small winding streets are easy to get lost in and can also be quite dirty with cow poo, trash, spits of pann (chewing tobacco) and open sewers. I really wouldn’t recommend you take a dip in the water here – if you want to dip in the Ganges places like Rishikesh and Haridwar are cleaner and better places to do it.

However, the last time I visited Varanasi the river, ghats and streets were noticeable cleaner than a few years before so things are improving. I’m just warning you what to expect but don’t let the scams and dirt put you off from visiting this fascinating and unique place.

Also see Hippie in Heel’s tips for visiting Varanasi and what to expect at the cremation ghats. and read about Varanasi’s crazy cannibal Aghori Babas. 

More India travel blogs and guides:

• See the erotic sculptures on the temples at Khajuraho
• Find peace under the Bodhi tree in Bodhgaya where the Buddha gained enlightenment
• Visit India’s capital Delhi.

Do you have any more questions or tips to add to this Varanasi travel guide? Leave them in the comments below