The Pros and Cons of Visiting Goa in Monsoon Season

Is it worth visiting Goa in monsoon season?

Most tourists flock to Goa’s sandy shores during the sunny and dry winter months between October and March when the weather is perfect for the beach and Goa buzzes with parties and activity. By April and May the heat and humidity rises and the crowds reduce. The period between June – September is Goa’s monsoon or rainy season. This puts most tourists off but I discovered there are many advantages, as well as some disadvantages, to visiting Goa in monsoon.

So what’s it really like in Goa during monsoon

Contrary to popular belief Goa does not completely close for monsoon. But it is a lot quieter than in season time. It’s the perfect time to just relax and watch the rains but if you want to party then you’ll need to consider carefully where to stay in Goa in monsoon and choose an area where things are open.

The weather in Goa in the rainy season

June sees the start of the monsoon in Goa and watching the first storms roll in with excited locals can be quite dramatic and fun. June and July see the heaviest rain, by August and September the rains are starting to ease up but you might also feel some pre monsoon rains and thunderstorms at the end of May. In June and July it can rain heavily all day, sometimes for a couple of days at a time, but then can clear up and allow for a warm, sunny day.

The monsoon in India is alot different to the rainy season in Southeast Asia where there is often a heavy downpour for an hour or so in the afternoon and you can usually plan your day around not getting wet. But in Goa sometimes it can rain all day and when it does the power goes off and it can make getting around difficult.

Read More: The Ultimate Guide to Visiting Goa in Monsoon

Vagator Beach, Goa in monsoon
Vagator Beach, Goa in the monsoon season

Where to Stay in Goa for monsoon

You need to think carefully about where to stay in Goa during monsoon season as not everywhere is open and the frequent power cuts mean that you’ll want to avoid low budget places and stay in a modern apartment or upmarket hotel with power back up. You’ll also want to have a car to get around.

Nearly all of the beach huts and shacks are pulled down and the night markets, flea markets and many parties cannot open in the rains so you need to bear this mind if your planning to visit Goa in the rains.

Monsoon is the perfect time to just relax and spend time with loved ones and enjoy walks on the quiet beaches and exploring the luscious green countryside.

The best places to stay in Goa in monsoon are Baga, Calangute and Candolim. These are the most developed beaches in Goa so more things stay open during the rainy season. A good place to stay is Wave Calangute Beach Resort These fully equipped modern AC 1 and 2 BHK apartments have 100% power back up and can comfortably sleep upto 8 people. There’s nice gardens and a pool to hang out at and close to Calangute Beach, Baga and Candolim.

There’s also some things open in Anjuna and Vagator including the famous Curlies beach shack which stays open during the rains and sometimes has parties on. The newly built Westin Anjuna is centrally located to explore Anjuna and Vagator with comfortable rooms, a spa, and a year round pool.  If you are travelling alone and want to meet others then if you stay in one of Goa’s fun backpacker hostels you have the best chance of finding people to hang out with.

Monsoon is also a great time to splash out on a bit of luxury as you can get great monsoon deals on luxury hotels in South Goa and make a great place to relax and watch the rains in comfort and luxury.

My favourite 5 star resort in North Goa is The Taj Fort Aguada, Candolim. The colourful and luxurious heritage style cottages are surrounded by luscious gardens and located on the most picturesque spot on upmarket Candolim Beach so you can soak up the stunning views over the ocean while still being close to all the action in Baga and Calangute. As it’s the Taj you can expect nothing less than unparalleled hospitality.

My favourite 5 star resort in South Goa is the Alila Diwa, Majorda. This beautiful Bali inspired luxury resort is even more stunning in monsoon. Watching the rains bring the green paddy fields to life from the infinity pool is just bliss. Plus there’s an excellent spa, 3 dinning options and 2 bars so, apart from romantic walks in the rain along the empty beaches, you don’t really to need to leave the resort.

Calangute Beach during a sunny spell in monsoon season
Calangute Beach during a sunny spell in monsoon season

I was pretty lucky with the weather when I was in Goa nearer the end of August one time as the monsoon was coming to a close and most days were a mixture of rain storms, clouds and sunny patches. The weather was actually more humid than in the winter and felt hotter, even when it rained it was not too cold. Most nights it rained heavily but in the day time there were plenty of sunny moments and watching the black clouds gather on the horizons and the storms roll before heading for cover to wait it out was actually quite fun.

Monsoon clouds over Calangute Beach, Goa
15 mins later! Monsoon storm clouds over Calangute Beach, Goa

When it rains, it pours! But the storms usually lasted only half an hour or so and were quite refreshing after the humidity, so whilst there was rain it didn’t put a dampener on the day too much and was far from the constant all day rain that the weather forecast had predicted. Although in June and July it can sometimes rain for most of the day.

Read Also: The Best Places to visit in India during Monsoon season

So what’s open in Goa during the rainy season?

While there are not many Western tourists, you won’t be the only tourist here! I noticed a distinct lack of Russian tourists who flock here in season time but monsoon season in Goa is popular with domestic Indian tourists.

Many guest houses and restaurants close down for the rainy season so don’t just pick a place in the Lonely Planet and show up as it might not be open! It’s best to book online in advance if you are coming to Goa in monsoon, I always use Booking.com or Agoda, many hotels offer discounted rates too.

But don’t worry you will still find somewhere to stay and something to eat, although most of the markets, parties and top restaurants are not open there are even still some parties in Baga and Calangute. In fact, this area is crowded in season time but probably the best place to stay in monsoon as more things will be open.

Check out my post on the best places to stay in Goa in monsoon for more tips and recommendations

Indian ladies take a stroll on an almost desert Arambol beach in monsoon season
Indian ladies take a stroll on an almost desert Arambol beach in monsoon season

The Baga, Calangute, Candolim stretch remains quite busy, especially at weekends, with Indian tourists and most accommodation, restaurants, shops and bars are open. Although is no where near as busy as it is in season time (for me, this was a good thing!) if you are looking for some action in the rainy season then Baga is probably your best bet.

The beaches in the North popular with hippies and backpackers like Anjuna and Vagator still have a handful of the more permanent structures open but most of the shacks on the beach and closed for monsoon, and when they say closed they really mean it!

Beach shacks closed for monsoon season on Anjuna Beach, Goa
Beach shacks closed for monsoon season on Anjuna Beach, Goa

This handy info graphic by BlurbGoa shows which beach shacks are open in monsoon:-

The popular Anjuna Flea Market and Saturday Night Markets are only open in the main tourist season. But the bars on Tito’s Lane in Baga are still open and a few other party places – see here for the best nightclubs open in monsoon in Goa

Morjim, Ashvem and Mandrem are quiet even in season but felt pretty deserted in the rainy season. Arambol seems to get busier and busier each season but off season while a few places are open at the north end of the beach it is blissfully quite and the shoulder to shoulder stalls that line the roads in season are refreshingly absent during monsoon.

Enjoying a Kingfisher beer at sunset overlooking Vagator Beach
Enjoying a Kingfisher beer at sunset at Waters overlooking Vagator Beach

South Goa even in season is the place to go to escape the crowds and, while the popular beach huts in Palolem are all taken down for monsoon and South Goa is very quiet, the luxury hotels offer great monsoon rates – click here to find special discounted Goa hotel rates on Agoda.  You can get 76% off on Agoda over monsoon at Alila Diwa one of my favourite 5 star hotels in Goa or get a discounted stay at The Leela, Goa’s most luxurious hotel for a perfect monsoon break.

See my post on the best places to stay in Goa in monsoon for my recommendations.

Read More: Where to go in India in July and August to avoid the worst of the rains.

Sunset over Vagator Beach in Goa
Sunset over Vagator Beach in Goa

Green, Green, Goa

Some say that Goa is at it’s most beautiful in the rainy season as everything is so luscious, green and so jungly. It’s almost like the jungle is trying to take back Goa!

Riding around exploring the countryside is a treat at this time especially as you can watch the locals going about their daily life largely unperturbed by tourists.

Cute Portuguese churches and green fields in Goa in monsoon season
Cute Portuguese churches and green fields in Goa in monsoon season
Fishing boats on the river in Goa
Fishing boats on the river in Goa
Hindu temple in the Goan countryside during monsoon season
Hindu temple in the Goan countryside during monsoon season
Colourful Portuguese villas and green paddy fields in Goa
Colourful Portuguese villas and green paddy fields in Goa

So should you visit Goa in monsoon season?

Whether or not you should visit during the rainy season depends on what side of Goa you want to see.

The advantages of visiting Goa in monsoon season:

  • Lower Prices
  • Green, beautiful scenery, a great time to explore the countryside by motorbike,
  • See a more local side of life
  • Less Crowds and have some of the beaches all to yourself.
  • The storms and rains can be quite dramatic and amazing to watch
Enjoying a glorious day on Anjuna Beach all to myself!
Enjoying a glorious day on Anjuna Beach all to myself!

The disadvantages of visiting Goa in monsoon season:

  • Weather can be unpredictable, rain is likely and weather is often not great for lazing on the beach
  • Many places shut outside the main tourist season meaning that there is not so much variety of accommodation, restaurant, shopping and partying options available and the markets are not open either.
  • As there are not so many tourists you are less likely to meet people and may feel a little lonely. One time I stayed at a backpacker hostel and meet a great bunch of people but did not see many other international tourists.
  • The beaches do not look their best and the water is sometimes too rough for swimming. Also, if you are the only foreigner in a bikini on the beach then you may attract a lot of unwanted attention.

Is Goa most beautiful in monsoon season?

Some say that Goa is the most beautiful in the rainy season, and while the lush green paddy fields and local life are really  a joy to explore and photograph, sadly Goa’s beaches do not look at their best during monsoon season.

The beaches are a bit litter strewn, the seas a little murky and sometimes too rough for swimming and many of the beachside shacks hang half torn down and dilapidated. On a gloomy, cloudy day it may not be exactly your idea of beach bliss!

Deserted Anjuna beach in Goa in monsoon
Deserted Anjuna beach in Goa in monsoon

While the tourists are away the jungle seems to be trying to reclaim Goa, many houses are covered in tarpaulins and black and green mildew stains the walls. The unkempt jungle, the derelict shacks, black clouds and the lack of tourists gives Goa a slightly moody, atmospheric desolate feel and when it rains, the red Goan dust turns into a bright orange mud that gets everywhere.

This house looks like it is being reclaimed by the jungle!
This house looks like it is being reclaimed by the jungle!

So whilst I really enjoyed exploring Goa at the end of the rainy season as I took advantage of lower prices, zipped through the green fields and loved getting to see a more chilled out and local side of life, visiting off season won’t be for everyone and during the months of June and July I find that the heavy rain and power cuts put a bit of a dampener on things. (pun intended! 😉

If you come here just for beaches and bars then you may be a little disappointed and leave not really getting what all the fuss is about.  However, there is so much more to Goa than just beaches and parties and visiting during the rainy season is the perfect time to chill, to enjoy a more local side to Goa and to explore the lush countryside.

For me, the hardest part about visiting Goa is leaving!

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Are you visiting Goa soon? Make sure to check out my Backpacker’s Guide to Goa and my post on where to stay in Goa during monsoon.
Have you visited Goa in monsoon season? How was your experience? 

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34 comments

RunawayBrit October 18, 2015 at 5:49 am

I went to Anjuna this time last year. I had 6 wonderful days of sunshine and sunbathing, and then a tropical storm rolled in for the next 4 days. It was so dramatic! The skies were black and the waves were high. I went to Cafe Lilliput one night and the waves were crashing inside the bar – and you know how high the front of Lilliput is! It was amazing.

I definitely preferred the wild weather 🙂

Reply
Anna January 22, 2016 at 5:54 pm

Wow, yes the monsoon storms are really quite dramatic and nice to hear that you still got some sunshine. Visiting in monsoon really isn’t as bad as many people think it is! Thanks for sharing your experiences 🙂

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neha May 27, 2016 at 10:38 am

This is an account I have been waiting to read for long. We love Goa, have been there twice in the seasons but want to visit next time during the monsoons for the sole experience of (in your words) : “watching the black clouds gather on the horizons and the storms roll before heading for cover to wait it out ” . What do you think would it be like to get an accommodation as close to the sea as possible, with the beach in view so that the rains on the sea can be enjoyed even while sheltered cozily. Will definitely write about it when I get a chance to do this.

Reply
Anna June 1, 2016 at 4:20 pm

Glad you liked the post and enjoyed Goa in monsoons. I don’t think it would be possible to get accommodation right on the beach during this time as most of the beach shacks and buildings are taken down due to the rough seas and weather but that would indeed be a cosy stay and great view point. Maybe the more upmarket hotels would still be open and could offer a beach front view of the monsoons! Enjoy your trip 🙂

Reply
Jacqui Akhilanda Smith May 24, 2017 at 4:32 pm

Goa, in the monsoon, is heart-achingly beautiful. The beaches return to their wild natural state, and Goa turns lush and green.

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Global Gallivanting May 27, 2017 at 5:13 pm

Yes I love how green it is and the empty beaches – it’s like that now all the beach shacks have come down and its still sunny (but hot) days but the rain will be welcome to replace the dust with greenery 🙂 My favourite time is just after monsoon while its still green and uncrowded but the heavy rains have gone. Being from the UK I’m not really a fan of days of endless rain and power cuts. I think if you have a car and a modern house monsoon is better. .

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Hanna Meiners May 24, 2017 at 4:48 pm

Peaceful due to less tourists. I liked the relaxing vibe.

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Global Gallivanting May 27, 2017 at 5:14 pm

Good to hear you liked it. It’s so nice when Goa is quiet and green 🙂

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Edward Martin May 25, 2017 at 2:44 am

LOVED IT ,Quiet ,very green ,warm rain .very clean air ,smells so good ,cheaper 🙂 Very Beautiful Time

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Global Gallivanting May 27, 2017 at 5:14 pm

Glad you loved it! 🙂 It can be really nice and so good to have a green goa without the crowds!

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Edward Martin May 28, 2017 at 6:31 pm

I AGREE , I really love Goa anytime 🙂

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Ravi Kumar May 25, 2017 at 5:54 am

Hmm I’ll be visiting India for all of July and aim to be in Goa after the 9th. Will be very interesting to witness the monsoon! And hopefully there will be like minded people around to meet, explore and party :). Thanks for the article and information!

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Global Gallivanting May 27, 2017 at 5:10 pm

Yes it is wonderful to experience the monsoon, it can be very dramatic. Glad that the information was useful. There won’t be so many people around and parties going on as there is in season but hopefully you’ll have a good time. 🙂

Reply
Ravi Kumar May 29, 2017 at 2:22 am

Well it rains all winter here in New Zealand haha so its nothing I won’t be used to, although it will still be warm In goa? I will have to research to know what is on,over the period I am there.

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Anna July 16, 2017 at 10:04 pm

Yeah it is still quite warm in Goa but can feel damp alot of the time . If you go to Baga area there should be things open. Hope you enjoy

Reply
Nitin Harugade June 6, 2017 at 10:10 am

Previously I had suggested you about dhudhsagar fall, You are planning for dudhsagar fall trip ???

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Global Gallivanting June 12, 2017 at 11:02 am

I visited Dudhsagar a while back – great spot 🙂

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Arun June 15, 2018 at 5:04 am

Loved your article . Is it possible to enjoy water sports during the monsoons ? Scuba divng , snorkelling ? Does anyone operate at that time of the year ? Planning to visit on June 22nd . Some tips would be appreciated . Thanks .

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Anna June 26, 2018 at 9:01 am

Hi Arun – the rough seas can make swimming and watersports dangerous in monsoon. I’m not sure if it will be possible

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Varun Garg June 26, 2018 at 11:20 am

Hi ANNA,

Really very informative article. I am travelling to Goa tomorrow with my better half and planning to stay near Candolim Beach Area. Can you please suggest some places that we can cover during this monsoon season?

Reply
Ron June 29, 2018 at 6:07 am

Hi…i am Ron…i am planning to visit Goa in july 8th to 12th during monsoon as a solo traveller.Anyone travelling that time?? Would have fun together !!

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Pranita July 8, 2018 at 8:23 pm

Hi Anna, Planning to visit Goa in Mid-August, is it a good time to visit? What kind of activities we can enjoy?Paragliding, parasailing? What about the famous markets?Also what will be the best places to visit during this time?

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Anna August 16, 2018 at 9:17 pm

Hi Pranita, no August is monsoon time so alot of places are closed – the seas are sometimes too rough for swimming and the markets are not open. It’s best just for chilling and exploring the countryside which is really beautiful at this time.

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David July 24, 2018 at 7:31 pm

Hello Anna,
Thank you so much for your blog, it’s becoming my reference for my trip in Goa.

I will come to Goa one week in mid September but it seems that there won’t be so many parties during the monsoon season. I read that it may be better to stay at Calangute or Baga during this season but I prefer trance & techno parties than commercial clubs… Is it a good idea to stay in Anjuna ? And will I find some places to listen that kind of music in September ? Hilltop and Shiva Valley seem amazing, I hope they will be open at least once a week ! 🙂

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Anna August 16, 2018 at 7:48 pm

Hi David. Yes, Anjuna area is best for trance but during monsoon most things are shut sadly. You could still stay in Anjuna but I don’t think it’s unlikely any big trance parties will be on yet. Curlies might be open – they have trance on Thursdays. UV Bar might also be open. Good luck – hope you have a good time. Better in come Dec – March for the best parties.

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Ganga May 25, 2019 at 8:42 am

Hey Anna, me and my friends are planning a trip near june end and wanted to ask if it would be a good time to visit Goa. It’s a shirt four day trip and we are planning to live in air bnb.

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Anna June 3, 2019 at 9:50 am

Hi Ganga – yes early June could be a good time to visit as long as you don’t mind some rain! The rains should just be starting in the first week of June and the first thunderstorms of monsoon are pretty dramatic and spectacular! Be aware that not everything will be open (ie parties and markets) as it’s off season but it should be a nice time for a quiet holiday. Enjoy! 🙂

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Harsh June 13, 2019 at 3:01 pm

Hey Anna.. Absolutely loved the blogs!! Looking for a first hand tip though..

Vis goa from 17th to 20th this month. Plg to stay somewhere around Baga-calangute-candolim belt.. although i hv read through almost all your blogs.. still would appriciate if you could tell a good option to lodge, party and explore..

Looking for a mid range stay somwhere between 3 to 7K..

Thanks in advance..

Regards

Reply
Anna July 1, 2019 at 5:06 pm

Hi Harsh

Glad you liked the blog – I’ve written a HUGE article on the best hotels in Goa – have a look there I think you’ll find something to suit you. https://www.global-gallivanting.com/best-places-stay-goa-beaches-budgets/ 🙂

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Hardik June 24, 2019 at 5:07 pm

Hey ! Planning south goa this weekend !! Is it advisable ?

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Anna July 1, 2019 at 4:41 pm

I’m not there at the moment so best to check the weather report and check that your chosen hotel is open. Good luck 🙂

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Akansha Negi August 4, 2021 at 11:57 am

Hi Anna,

Nice article indeed! Actually, the image selection and the way of writing is very nice. I got it very well that Goa is beyond beaches also. One can relive their childhood days in the lush green expanse of Goa’s spice plantations and gardens. Unique and well-crafted information of Goa other than its pristine blue beaches. I am glad that I found this blog post by accidently browsing.

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Anna August 9, 2021 at 1:12 pm

Thank you Akansha! Yes, Goa is beautiful in monsoons too! There is so much more to this place than just the beaches

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Tips for Traveling in the Rainy Season in Southeast Asia - Global Gallivanting Travel & Yoga Blog March 1, 2023 at 6:36 am

[…] to India in monsoon season? That’s a whole different story. Check out the pros and cons of visiting Goa in monsoon and where you can go in July and August to avoid monsoon in […]

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