Goan Beach Life
As we relax into enjoying Goan beach life the days start to melt into one. We spend our days strolling along the beach, swimming, eating delicious seafood, drinking chilled kingfishers, watching cows and dusty village life.
Our room for the week is situated less than 100 meters from the sea, just behind the Lobos beach bar. We paid 600 rupees (£7) a night for a large but basic, slightly grubby room with 3 hard beds and attached western bathroom.
Outside a white Portuguese style balustrade skirted the bright blue building and served as a good place for us to sit and talk to our fellow travellers (most of which were Russian). We looked down on little houses and dusty paths, listening to the birds singing, waves crashing and the sea breeze whispering through the rustle of the palm trees. In the distance I could make out a little white Portuguese church cross against the blue sea.
Animals of Anjuna
My favourite part of the day is having a morning lassi at the Lobos beach bar in front of our room, where we got to know the nice Nepalese owner. I sip the creamy drink on the Goan beach watching as the herd of cows wander along the beach in their daily cow migration at about 10.30am.
The cows spend their mornings sitting on the narrow, dusty paths round the village, daring anyone to move them out of the way. Later they wander through the clothes stalls and stare out to sea by the rocks before getting together with the rest of the herd to trek across to the other end of the beach. It’s a wonderful sight, along the way they pass the beach shacks and some of the resident dogs get excited and come out barking at the cows who don’t seem to be bothered. They just carry on with their slow loping stride along the beach.
Each bar in Goa seems to have a couple of resident or adopted dogs and they look in much better condition than the strays in the cities. We make friends with a couple of Goan beach dogs as we casually bar/shack hop along the beach. They all have different personalities and love the attention; they seek shelter under our sun loungers or bathe in the sun on their backs with their legs in the air. A little snout comes out from under our sun lounger when I drop a scrap of sandwich in the sand. One friendly dog even has eyebrows drawn on.
Often after the cow migration the dogs run round the beach a bit more barking at the neighbouring dogs, jumping into the shallow waves with delight and chasing after the coconut shells that I throw for them.
I float around in the sea amongst fishing boats, the scene looking back over the water onto the golden beach fringed with palm trees and wooden beach bar shacks is wonderful.
Most evenings we walk along the beach and take in beautiful Goan beach sunsets whilst eating gorgeous seafood and goan fish curries. The sun looms large and close in the sky, glittering and reflecting back in the sea as the waves lap ever so close to the rustic beach shacks.
Music from the open beach front bars drifts along with the warm, sea breeze. We walk through the sand in the dark, our feet in the gently lapping sea, past the twinkly lights of the shacks and bars. We sit on wicker chairs stuck into the sand, talking and gazing out at the night sea, listening to the crashing waves and Bob Marley. The pace of life slows on the Goan beach and hectic India feels far away. It is the perfect respite.
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